Basics

What is a bead?

For the purposes of this article, a bead is any object that you can pass a cord, string, thread, or wire through. Beads can be made from natural or manmade materials and are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. [1]

History

Cultures all over the world throughout history have used beads for adornment. Historical beads and beadwork have been found in Africa, Egypt, Europe, Asia, Siberia and the Americas. [2] [3] [4] Beads have also been heavily used in trade as currency. [5] [1]

The oldest objects that could be considered beads were found in Bizmoune Cave in Morocco. These are simple shells with a hole drilled through and are thought to be over 140,000 years old. [6] [7] [8]

Historically, beads were made with materials found in nature including shells, bone, teeth, horn, wood, stone/gemstones, amber, jet, coral, seeds/nuts, ivory, clay, tortoiseshell [9] [1]

Glass was invented in Mesopotamia about 4500 years ago (2500 BCE). The earliest form of glass beads may have been wound around a metal rod and shaped then cooled. [10] A hybrid of glass/ceramic called “faience” was made in Mesopotamia starting around 5000 BCE. This was widely used in Egypt and was usually made in a blue color. [11] [12] [13]

Historically, stringing materials were usually sinew, leather, or fibers like silk or linen. [4] Sadly, these degrade over time, and the finished pieces can fall apart.

Other historically well-known bead making traditions sprung up in Ancient Rome, Venice/Murano (known especially for millefiori and lampwork), India, West Africa, and Mauritania. [14] [15] [4]

Types of beadwork

Bead stringing involves stringing beads on a single strand of thread or cord. You can have multiple strands of beads stacked in the same piece, and you can have multiple passes of thread through each strand for stability, but the strands are not woven together or connected except at the clasp/end.

Bead weaving involves weaving thread through beads to create different stitches and patterns. There are two main types of bead weaving: Loom and Off-Loom.

Loom weaving is done using a bead loom, which has warp and weft threads. Beads are arranged in a grid similar to pixel art. You can use regular graph paper to create a loom pattern!

Off-loom bead weaving has several commonly used stitches:

• RAW – right angle weave and variations

  • Cubic RAW (CRAW)

  • Prismatic RAW (PRAW)

• Netting stitch

• Peyote stitch & variations

  • Flat - Odd/Even count

  • Circular

  • Tubular

• Brick stitch & Variations

  • Tubular

  • Twisted

• Square stitch

• Herringbone/Ndeble stitch

• Ladder stitch

• Spiral/Rope stitches

• Coraling technique

Other Types of Beadwork

Bead embroidery involves stitching beads down and attaching them to a background.

In addition to seed beads, you can also use crystals or other beads, or sequins, rhinestones, and rivolis.

Bead embroidery can be done around a cabochon, or as a design. You will need a fabric or felt ground, and it can be done inside an embroidery hoop. Once the embroidery is finished it is backed with fabric or leather.

You can also add beads into your cross stitch or embroidery/needlework projects!

If you knit, crochet, or tat, you can inject some sparkle into your fiber arts projects by adding beads! Usually, you need to string the beads onto your yarn/thread before you start stitching, but I have seen people putting beads on after the piece is started. I think you need to have a bead with a large enough hole and a VERY small crochet hook.

Supplies

Beads

Seed Beads

Seed beads are used for a wide variety of beadwork, including single stringing, loomwork, bead embroidery, bead knitting/crochet/tatting, and off-loom weaving stitches. They are heavily or exclusively used in loom work and some off-loom stitches like peyote or brick stitch.

Glassmakers started to make seed beads from glass between 2000-4000 years ago. Today, seed beads are made from hollow tubes of glass cut crosswise. They may be heated or tumbled to round the edges. They are available in a rainbow of colors, transparencies, and finishes.

Depending on the type of beadwork you are doing, you may be more or less concerned with bead size and consistency. Some stitches work up better when using consistently sized beads, and some seed bead manufacturers put more effort into making their beads consistent.

Bead sizes can vary between brands and manufacturers as well, for example a Miyuki 11/0 and a Toho 11/0 will be different. I recommend buying the same brand of beads for projects where consistency is important. Here is a post from Reddit that is a good illustration of the difference between brands: [16]

Sometimes you will buy a package of beads that are the same “size” (e.g. 11/0) but they are cut very inconsistently so that some beads in the same package are much longer/shorter than the rest, or even misshapen or broken. This is often an indication of quality – but don’t throw those beads out! You may still be able to use them, but you will have to cull them first.

Culling is the act of removing (or separating) beads that are too different in size, or beads that are broken or very misshapen, so that you are left with more consistent beads to select from for your project. If you buy a package of seed beads and they look very irregular, consider buying another package of those beads to make sure you have enough.

Irregular beads are not ideal for many bead weaving stitches, especially loom work or very tight/even stitches like brick/peyote/square. However, inconsistent beads can work out for some stitches like netting, for bead stringing or even better for bead embroidery; sometimes a smaller or larger bead is perfect to fill the space in the pattern. (Photo 10)

Beads, especially glass beads, are created in “dye lots” – if you work with yarn or thread, you will be familiar with this concept. When a batch of beads is made, the color is mixed up for that batch. Each batch may be slightly different than the next and things like ambient air temperature, air pressure and humidity can also affect the final product. If you are planning a large project that will use a lot of beads, I recommend buying all the beads you think you will need from the same place at the same time. This will help ensure you get consistent color in your bead palette.

Most common types of seed beads

Rocaille Beads: The edges of these beads are rounded, and they are available in sizes 2/0 to 15/0 (larger > smaller). Size 11/0 is the most common with 8/0 and 15/0 also being fairly common. Historically, seed beads were made as small as 30/0 but anything smaller than 15/0 that isn’t vintage is very hard to find nowadays.

Cylinder Beads: These are available under a few brands: Miyuki Delica, Toho Aiko, and the new John Bead Cylin. These beads are made in sizes 8/0, 11/0, and 15/0. Cylinder beads are much more consistent in size than rocaille, and they are not rounded on the edges. The walls are thinner, so the hole is larger and you can generally get more passes of thread through. From the side they are almost (but not quite) square. For this reason, cylinder beads are PERFECT for stitches like peyote, brick stitch, square stitch, and loom weaving. They are great for patterns that are objects or images. See my posts for Bat Earrings and Christmas Tree Cake earrings for examples.

Czech seed beads are either sold on hanks (a group of strung up beads) or may come in tubes. John Bead and Preciosa are common brands of Czech beads that you will find in craft stores. I have found that Czech seed beads sold in tubes TEND to be more regular/uniform in size than the beads that come on hanks, but this is not 100% true. Bead consistency can also vary by brand/distributor and color. I have bought different colors from the same brand that varied greatly in consistency within the color.

Czech beads have the widest range of colors and finishes and tend to be less expensive than Japanese seed beads. Also, color can vary between manufacturer – I have 3 tubes of “Metallic Gold” seed beads, 2 are from John Bead and 1 is Miyuki and they are all very different golds!

Japanese seed beads are sold in tubes or can be bought in bulk in a small bag. (photo) Japanese seed beads are generally more consistent in size between beads than Czech beads, though there can still be some variance in the same package. Miyuki is the most common brand followed by Toho. These 2 brands are both very good quality and tend to be more expensive than Czech seed beads. Matsuno is another brand of Japanese seed beads that are “economy” beads.

Seed beads made in China or India are inexpensive but can be very inconsistent. They will usually be sold on hanks. These could still be useful for stringing or embroidery, but if you are using these seed beads for certain precise work, you may have to do some culling.

Other types of seed beads:

Charlotte: seed beads with one side cut off to create a facet and catch the light.

Hex cut: seed beads have facets cut into them. Catches the light but can also catches your hair, clothing, etc.

Triangle: seed beads cut from a triangular shaped rod instead of round. These also catch the light in a different way.

Drop bead: 3.4mm drop beads are often used with seed beads especially to create a lacy edge (Photo 62)

Bugle Beads: Not really a “seed” bead but just like seed beads, bugle beads are made from tubes of glass cut crosswise. Bugle beads are cut in lengths as short as 2 mm up to 35 mm (and maybe longer). They come in a wide variety of colors and finishes, and also in a few different styles like hex cut, triangle, and twisted.

Non-Seed Beads

Glass

Glass beads are made in a staggering variety of shapes, colors, finishes, and sizes.

Common glass & crystal beads

Leaded crystal beads: Lead adds beautiful clarity and sparkle to glass. Leaded crystal beads made nowadays contain a “safe” amount of lead. The most common shape used is the bicone which is sort of a diamond shape. Bicones are sized from 2 mm to 12-14 mm.

Swarovski crystal beads are Austrian crystal considered the highest quality and made in many colors, shapes, and sizes. Swarovski beads used to be available to anyone; you could even buy them in local craft stores. Now you must be a licensed/certified creator or wholesaler to purchase Swarovski beads.

Preciosa brand stepped into the market after Swarovski went exclusive. Preciosa are very good quality Czech leaded crystal in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. These seem to be the best quality option if you don’t have access to Swarovski.

Chinese “crystal” beads are also available; they may or may not include lead and the level of lead may or may not be “safe.” They are less expensive than Preciosa but are lower quality and you may run into misshapen or broken beads.

Czech fire polish faceted crystals – faceted glass beads in an oval shape that come in a wide variety of colors and finishes and made in sizes from 2 mm up to 14 mm.

2-hole beads are common and popular with bead workers. They add a lot of variety and design options to your beadwork. Common 2-hole shapes are Superduo/MiniDuo, GemDuo, DiamondDuo, Tila, and more.

Lampwork Beads are created on a bead mandrel using a torch and blown glass. These usually have larger holes and can be strung on thicker thread or cord.

Millefiori beads are made using glass canes. A “cane” (also used in clay and candy) is a cylindrical piece of material with a design created inside so that when it is cut in crosswise slices, the design is shown.

Glass “pearls” are glass beads coated with a pearlescent coating. These can vary in quality, and the coating can flake off.

Czech beads are also available in MANY pressed/molded glass shapes

Natural/Organic Materials

Beads can be made from a wide variety of natural materials, organic and inorganic. When buying beads made from animal materials, please make sure they were obtained humanely.

• Wood/bamboo

• Pearls (freshwater and saltwater)

• Stone/Mineral/Gemstone/Crystal such as quartz, amethyst, tiger-eye, jasper, agate, lapis lazuli, etc.

• Bone/teeth

• Horn/claw

• Shell or Mother-of-Pearl (Photo 30)

  

• Metal

• Clay

  

• Seed/nut

• Ivory/Tusk (problematic industry and illegal to own in many areas)

• AmberKim VanVuuren | Pexels

• Jet (fossilized wood coal)

• Tortoiseshell

• Coral

  

Other Materials

Beads can be made from almost anything! If you go to the bead section in a craft store, you will see beads made from so many different materials! And some beads you can even make yourself, like paper, fabric, clay, and resin!

• Rolled Paper/Fabric

• Plastic/Acrylic (Photo 43)

  

• Silicone

• Vinyl

• Resin (2-part epoxy or UV)

• Polymer Clay

• Ceramic

• Enamel/Cloisonne (Metal)

Non-Bead Supplies

Needles

Beading Needles are different than sewing needles. Beading needles have a notch or a groove at the top of the eye, so that the thread lays in it. This helps the needle and thread get through the tiny bead holes easier and smoother. Beading needles commonly come in sizes 10-12 but can go down to size 15. The eyes can be a weak point on these needles, especially the finer ones; if you are pulling through tight beads or many thread passes you can break the eye of the needle.

Big Eye Needles are split down most of the middle of the needle – they are 2 lengths of wire soldered together at the tips. These can be easier to thread and they sort of “lock” the thread in at the end. However, these are prone to bending apart so that they will not hold the thread and also splitting at the join.

Loom Needles are generally longer than regular beading needles – loom projects can get pretty wide and you need a longer needle to hold each row of beads. They are also great for making long fringe on a necklace or earrings even on off-loom pieces. Having a longer needle to hold more beads really speeds things up!

Twisted Wire Collapsible Eye Needles are great for stringing onto ribbon, strips of fabric, or thicker thread or cord. The large eye will be able to accommodate the thicker material and the eye collapses down so that it can go through the bead hole. These are generally used with larger, chunkier beads with bigger holes.

J-Curve or C-Curve Needles are mainly for use with bead spinners. The curved end helps the beads jump onto the needle while the spinner is spinning.

Many beaders use their needles until they are split or bent so badly as to be unusable. A slightly bent needle is not usually an issue and may actually be easier to get into some tight spots!

Stringing Materials

Thread

Polyethylene Thread

Polyethylene threads are used mainly for off-loom weaving. They are stiffer, less stretchy and are great for pieces that have structure, especially peyote or brick stitch. There are a few main types available.

Fireline is thermally bonded braided polyethylene. It originated as fishing line created by Berkley but beaders found it was perfect for beadwork and both Beadsmith and Beadalon sell it under their respective brands. It is very strong and abrasion resistant so can hold up well against sharp bead edges. It comes in 4 lb, 6 lb, 8 lb, and 10 lb strength/thickness and the colors available are Crystal or Smoke.

When working with Fireline, I have found that the Smoke color rubs off on my hands. However, it does wash off easily. I recommend getting some special fishing line scissors if you are going to use Fireline – regular thread scissors have a lot of trouble cutting it.

Wildfire is also a thermally bonded polyethylene, but it is fused. It is also very strong and abrasion resistant. Wildfire is made by Beadalon and is made specifically for bead weaving. It comes in 2 thicknesses: .006 in and .008 in. Wildfire comes in several colors: white, black, red, blue, green, pink, gray, brown. I have found that Wildfire .006 is thicker than the Fireline 6 lb/.006in. Another thing I have found when working with Wildfire is that the thread untwists and on the colored threads, the middle core of it is still white and you may get a visible white dot when using darker thread and dark colored beads.

Miyuki Dura-Line is a braided polyethylene thread. It comes in Crystal and Smoke, and .12mm or .15mm thickness. This is a new player on the beading scene. I have not tried it but Miyuki is a popular brand that makes quality products.

Nylon Threads

Nylon Threads are more flexible and are great for loom weaving, fringe and looser pieces. Here are several major brands of nylon thread that are popular in the beading world:

Nymo is a popular nylon thread that comes in just about any color imaginable. The sizes available are 00, 0, B, D, F. (smaller -> larger) Nymo is sold under many brand names. It is flat and looks similar to dental floss. Nymo tends to fray and shred with a lot of use and is prone to splitting (when the needle splits the existing thread on a new pass). If you have to undo your work, you may run into this; waxing or conditioning your thread can help. Another way to avoid this problem is don’t cut too much thread to work with at a time – the longer your thread, the more friction it undergoes with each pass through a bead.

Toho One-G is a nylon thread that is twisted. It is very similar to Nymo but I find it frays much less. It comes in 24 colors and the weight is 330dtex. I like to use it for fringe earrings and bead embroidery.

Miyuki also makes their own pre-waxed nylon beading thread. I have not had a chance to try it but it has good reviews! It comes in many colors, but I have only been able to find one size: B.

John Bead Good Thread is a new thread that I’ve only seen recently. It is bonded nylon and comes in black and white but only seems to come in one thickness (I haven’t found any other size). I have both colors and it feels stiffer than Nymo or One-G, but not as stiff as Wildfire or Fireline. It seems like it would be a good middle ground between the two. I made some fringe earrings with it and the fringe wasn’t stiff.

C-Lon and S-Lon are two different brands that make a very similar product. These threads/cords are bonded nylon cord that is used frequently for macrame. It comes in a wide range of colors and starts at size 0.12 mm up to 1 mm. Also good for bead crochet.

Silamide is a waxed nylon thread that is great for fine sewing, beading and bead embroidery. It comes in size A (0.2mm) and a wide range of colors.

K-O beading thread is a bonded nylon thread that is manufactured by Miyuki. It is available in 24 colors and a weight of TEX35 which seems to be about .006mm

Thread wax/conditioner is useful for tangle/fray/shred prevention especially with nylon threads. Beeswax or thread conditioner can be used. I don’t usually wax the whole length of thread but just the area at the end where it is threaded through the needle. Some threads are pre-waxed or treated so they do not tangle as much but it can still help to wax the end, so that less stress is put on the thread at that point.

Which thread to use when?

Generally, the smaller your beads, the thinner the thread you want to use. For example, with size 11 beads I use 6 lb Fireline, but with size 15 beads, I can get more passes and less bead breakage using 4 lb Fireline. But if I don’t need to do more than 2 passes, 6 lb Fireline may work with the size 15 beads.

Polyethylene thread is recommended for pieces that are meant to be stiffer and have more structure. For fringe or looser weave pieces, nylon thread is a better choice.

For colors, if a color match is available to your beads, people generally choose that. But for threads with limited color selection, I go with a simpler formula: light colored beads = crystal or white thread and dark colored beads = smoke or black thread.

Other Stringing Materials

Monofilament is a clear string/cord that is used commonly in jewelry making and comes in several thicknesses. It is stiffer than beading thread and isn’t great for weaving unless it is very thin. It is good for single strings, illusion jewelry, and since it is clear it doesn’t show as much.

Tiger Tail/Beading Wire is very fine twisted wire with a clear coating. This is very strong and hard to cut with regular scissors – I recommend wire cutters. Tiger Tail is great for single string necklaces and bracelets and also for creating a foundation row and then weaving off of that row with beading thread.

There are many types of cording or lacing available made from a variety of materials. You can find cotton, leather, rattail, rexlace, ribbon or fabric strips.

Findings

To complete your jewelry, you need things like clasps, ear wires, pins, and other findings. These are commonly found in craft stores. Findings are usually available in a variety of metal tones. Gold and silver tone are the most common, but you can also find copper/rose gold, bronze, pewter/gunmetal, and black. If you are making finer jewelry or have metal allergies, you can find sterling silver, titanium, or real gold/gold plated findings, but they will be more expensive!

• Ear wires/French hook: Used for creating dangly earrings.

• Jump rings are used for linking clasps to beadwork or linking pieces of beadwork together. Jump rings are available from 2mm diameter on up in a variety of wire gauges. You can also make your own jump rings with jewelry wire, something cylindrical to wind it around, and wire cutters.

• Head & eye pins are used for creating bead links, connectors, and bead dangles.

• There are many types of clasps used for closing for bracelets & necklaces:

• Lobster clasp

• Toggle clasp

• Box clasp

• Barrel clasp

• Magnetic clasp

• Spring Ring clasp

• Hook & Eye clasp

• S-clasp

• Lanyard clasp

Other Useful Supplies

A small desk lamp or neck light can help you see better in low light or if you have visual impairments. Beads, thread and needle can be very small and hard to see sometimes!

A magnifying glass or reading glasses can also be helpful.

I like to do my projects on a tray with a beading mat in it. You can find trays suitable for projects at crafts stores, dollar stores, discount/variety stores, or even thrift stores!

Beading mats are a piece of fabric with a thick pile on it similar to velvet. They help grab the beads, so they don’t roll around and are easier to pick up. Beading mats usually come in 9x12 inch size, but they can be cut to fit the tray you are using.

Scoops & Spoons for moving beads to & from their container.

Bead Reamers are metal rods/spikes with grit on them. They are used for making a bead hole larger or to clear out something obstructing the hole (a chip of glass from a broken bead, etc). Lampwork beads will often have white powder inside their holes from when they were created and bead reamers can help clean this out.

Project Boxes with a secure lid are great if you like to take your beading places. Beading is a very portable craft, as long as you have a secure place to store your working beads!

Bead Trays are triangular shaped metal or plastic trays that are small and stackable. The triangle points make it easy to pour the beads back into the main bead container when you are ready to put them away.

A measuring tape is handy to have when making bracelets or necklaces. I like the retractable ones.

Pencil Cases are great for holding small supplies like scissors, needle tubes/cases, spoons, smaller spools of thread, needle threaders, thimbles, measuring tapes.

Fine jewelry pliers with smooth faces are used for opening jump rings, working with ear wires and head/eye pins. I also use these to help me pull the needle through a tight bead that already has thread passes.

Scissors are crucial for cutting beading thread. You can use regular scissors or thread/needlework scissors for nylon thread, but if you are using polyethylene thread you may want to get some scissors that are made for fishing line. You can find these in a sporting goods store or section. If you don’t have access to those make sure your scissors are very sharp.

Thread Zap is a device made by BeadSmith. It has a wire coil that heats up and melts the thread apart. This is great for cutting your thread ends because it can get very close to the beadwork. You don’t want a thread end poking out of your beadwork!

Tweezers can be helpful for undoing stitches, picking up beads, or pulling thread through a tight bead.

Needle threaders are used to help you thread beading needles. However, very fine beading needles won’t accept a needle threader.

Wearing a thimble on your finger or thumb can help push a needle through a tight spot.

Glue is used for securing knots; two commonly used glues are GS Hypo Cement or E 6000 Jewelry. These have a very fine needle tip that lets you put the glue exactly where you want it.

For bead embroidery you will need some fabric or felt backing, an embroidery hoop, E 6000 or other strong glue for gluing a cabochon to backing, and leather or other fabric for the outer “pretty” backing.

Bead Storage

There are many, MANY ways to store your beads and how you do it all depends on your personal work style, storage space, contents of your stash, and more.

I store my non-seed beads in containers from Harbor Freight. These containers come with 24 smaller boxes inside. I like each bead type in its own container so that I can take out exactly which beads I am going to use. I organize each main box by color.

I store my seed beads in their original tubes or bags they came in. I organize them by color in ziploc bags. Size 11 are the most common seed beads, so I put the size 8 and 15 in smaller baggies within the larger one. Also, my Delicas are in their own separate baggie because I don’t have a lot and I tend to only use those when I do brick or peyote. When I empty a tube of seed beads, I save the empty tube and transfer any beads that are in bags to the tubes.

There are many other storage systems available. Some are made specifically for beads such as Elizabeth Ward’s Bead Storage Solution. Many people use repurposed storage such as the Harbor Freight boxes, tackle boxes, or things you might otherwise discard such as empty jars, empty pill bottles, cigar/pre-roll tubes, empty tic tac containers, condiment containers, film canisters, or other small, lidded containers.

Pinterest is a great resource for finding ideas and inspiration for storing and organizing your beads.

References

[1] Britannica Editors, “Bead | Ornament Making, History & Uses | Britannica,” Encyclopedia Brittanica, 27 September 2023. [Online]. Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/bead. [Accessed 2026].

[2] C. Coleman, ““ASI Heritage - a Thread Between Generations: Indigenous Beadwork From Then to Now.”,” 2021. [Online]. Available: https://asiheritage.ca/a-thread-between-generations-indigenous-beadwork-from-then-to-now/.

[3] J. A. Crabb, ““Documenting Historical Beadwork.”,” 6 December 2025. [Online]. Available: https://web.archive.org/web/20251206073710/https://roxelanab.tripod.com/medievalbeadwork/id9.html.

[4] Bluestreak Crystals, ““The History of Beads: From Ancient Artifacts to Modern Treasures.”,” 2023. [Online]. Available: https://www.bluestreakcrystals.com/blogs/news/history-of-beads.

[5] D. Graeber, ““Beads and Money. Notes toward a Theory of Wealth and Power”,” 12 November 2025. [Online]. Available: https://davidgraeber.org/articles/beads-and-money/.

[6] A. Gibbons, ““World’s Oldest Known Beads Found in Morocco.”,” 2021. [Online]. Available: https://www.science.org/content/article/world-s-oldest-known-beads-found-morocco.

[7] M. Johnson, ““Archaeologists Find the Oldest-Known Shell Beads.”,” 2021. [Online]. Available: https://leakeyfoundation.org/archaeologists-find-the-oldest-known-shell-beads/.

[8] D. Kindy, ““Are These Snail Shells the World’s Oldest Known Beads?”,” 2021. [Online]. Available: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/worlds-oldest-jewelry-discovered-in-moroccan-cave-180978766/.

[9] W. Feld, ““A Very Abbreviated, but Not Totally Fractured, History of Beads.”,” 17 April 2020. [Online]. Available: https://warren-29626.medium.com/a-very-abbreviated-but-not-totally-fractured-history-of-beads-bdd35d6c77f6.

[10] H. Tanna, ““History on the Production of Seed Glass Beads.”,” 18 July 2024. [Online]. Available: ttps://www.africanbeadcraft.co.za/blogs/the-invention-and-evolution-of-seed-glass-beads-a-journey-through-time/history-on-the-production-of-seed-glass-bead.

[11] C. Riccardelli, “Egyptian Faience: Technology and Production,” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1 December 2017. [Online]. Available: https://www.metmuseum.org/essays/egyptian-faience-technology-and-production. [Accessed 2026].

[12] J. Kuhn, “faience,” Fashion History Timeline, 18 November 2025. [Online]. Available: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/faience/. [Accessed 2026].

[13] J. J. Mark, “Egyptian Faience,” World History Encyclopedia, 11 August 2010. [Online]. Available: https://www.worldhistory.org/Egyptian_Faience/. [Accessed 2026].

[14] Fossilfly Imports, ““How a Millefiori Murano Glass Pendant Is Made.”,” 2006. [Online]. Available: https://web.archive.org/web/20090305115217/http://fossilfly.com/Creating_a_Millefiore_Pendant.htm. [Accessed 2026].

[15] St. Stephens Indian Mission Foundation, ““The History of Glass Beads.”,” 2021. [Online]. Available: https://windriver.org/the-history-of-glass-beads/..

[16] W. Feld, ““ORIENTATION to BEADS & JEWELRY FINDINGS a Video Tutorial by Warren Feld.”,” 17 March 2021. [Online]. Available: https://blog.landofodds.com/orientation-to-beads/.

[17] A. Inggs, ““How Beads Changed the World.”,” 2023. [Online]. Available: https://www.worldofinteriors.com/story/beads-history.

[18] E. King, ““A Brief History of the Bead.”,” 2020. [Online]. Available: https://www.beading.live/a-brief-history-of-the-bead/.

[19] A. O, ““All About Beading Thread: A Deep Dive.”,” 15 April 2023. [Online]. Available: https://www.eurekacrystalbeads.com/blogs/all-about-beading-thread-a-deep-dive.

[20] P. Egglezos, ““How It’s Made - Millefiori Glass Paperweights.”,” 31 January 2012. [Online]. Available:

[21] R. U. “NaniNYQZ.”, ““R/Beading - Comparing 11/0 Seed Beads.”,” 22 March 2022. [Online]. Available: https://www.reddit.com/r/Beading/comments/tkl1i5/comparing_110_seed_beads/.

[22] Britannica Editors, “Beadwork | Ornament Making, History & Uses | Britannica,” Encyclopedia Britannica, 7 June 2024. [Online]. Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/beadwork. [Accessed 2026].

[23] M. Garson, “History of Beads: A Brief Peek into Prehistory,” Museum of Beadwork, 30 March 2021. [Online]. Available: https://www.museumofbeadwork.org/blogs/news/beads-a-brief-peek-into-early-prehistory. [Accessed 2026].

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